South of the border on South Whidbey

"Three months ago, new restaurateurs Troy and Stephanie Cook purchased Rich Burgess' La Paz restaurant. Since then, the couple has been giving the Southwest and Mexican food at the establishment a spicier flair. "

“The restaurant business is heating up in Clinton.Three months ago, new restaurateurs Troy and Stephanie Cook purchased Rich Burgess’ La Paz restaurant. Since then, the couple has been giving the Southwest and Mexican food at the establishment a spicier flair. They have kept most of the menu items created by Burgess and have added several new recipes of their own. And every one of those recipes have gotten a little kick in the spice department. We added some spice to everything, said Stephanie Cook, who has taken charge of the restaurant’s menu revisions and business affairs during the past few months.But the hot hands behind the food belong to Troy Cook, who came to La Paz after several years as a cook at Ivar’s in Mukilteo. Schooled in Southwest cuisine and well trained in the art of seafood preparation, Troy has been busy adding prawns, Dungeness crab, red snapper, and Southwest spices to everything from his flamboyant Flautas de Camaron to his simple Baja Chowder. To make the menu more authentic, Troy has also added refried beans to every entree — something that was not available in the past.Stephanie Cook said she loves working with her husband to create new dishes.The stuff we’re doing is stuff we make ourselves, she said.Originally from the Lake Chelan area, the couple has been living on South Whidbey for several years. While her husband cooked at Ivar’s, Stephanie managed Langley’s Ace Leather Goods. First-time business owners with their purchase of the 4-year-old La Paz, the Cooks say they are enjoying the move from being employees to being employers. Troy Cook said he has no problem with the long hours the business requires.I love the high output and the stress behind it, he said.Located in the same building as Clinton’s CyberCafe, La Paz has long been popular for its fresh take on Southwest food, which included unusual dishes such as fish tacos, saffron rice, and well-sauced tamales. The Cooks have kept and improved upon these South Whidbey originals. By adding more spice and expanding both the adult and children’s menus, the couple hope to attract more families and individuals who have a taste for Tex-Mex.The restaurant offers a big lineup of hot sauces for adventurous diners, and now sells about a dozen medium- and high-octane sauces for those wanting them for home use.Stephanie Cook noted that all La Paz’s dishes can be prepared to taste for patrons who do not like their food spicy.The Cooks have also made some decor changes to the La Paz locals have grown to expect. Gone are the record album covers that once plastered almost every square inch of wall space in the dining area. Troy said most of those covers had near-mint vinyl inside of them, so he has added them to his classic record collection.Though some longtime patrons might miss the records, the Cooks made a discovery while denuding the walls that will please Southend oldtimers. Under some burlap sacks attached to a wall behind the service counter, they discovered a painted fresco depicting angelic fairies. Troy Cook said the painting may date back to the days when a bakery filled La Paz’s space.As summer approaches, the Cooks will add more items to their menu. They also plan to improve outdoor seating and expand the business’ take-out service. “