Charcuterie business open in Freeland

Biercuterie offers artisan cheeses, cured meats, craft beers and other delights fit for a picnic.

One man’s dream of becoming a cheesemonger has finally come to fruition with the opening of Biercuterie, a new shop in Freeland offering artisan cheeses, cured meats, craft beers, chocolates, jams and other edible delights fit for a picnic.

Almost a decade ago, Brian Bystrom and his wife, Sarah, were walking in Los Angeles, where they met and lived at the time. The couple entered a cheese shop, and it was then that Brian expressed his desire to become a cheesemonger.

In 2020, the Bystroms moved to South Whidbey and started their own farm. When a commercial space opened up in downtown Freeland, they leapt at the chance to start Biercuterie with the support of other small business owners. Biercuterie is a portmanteau that combines bier – the German word for beer – and charcuterie.

“Both of us are foodies,” Sarah said. “Growing up, my mom was cooking out of Bon Appetit and Epicurious.”

Bryan prefers blue cheese, while Sarah’s favorites are soft and spreadable, such as the rich and creamy Délice de Bourgogne.

“I like to have the buttery ones, the ones that melt in your mouth,” she said.

Just about every cheese can be sampled at Biercuterie. Everything in the case is produced with pre-industrial methods by makers that use sustainable practices.

Sarah has been slowly building her encyclopedia of cheesy knowledge by researching a number of different types for Biercuterie’s cheese of the month club, which currently boasts 21 members. For $40, members receive three kinds of cheese and pairing notes. One time she paired cheese with deviled eggs, and another time with popcorn.

“When we do that, I really look into the cheeses,” Sarah said. “I learn the story of how they made it, where the name comes from, every part of it.”

Cheeses come from as close as the Skagit Valley and as far away as Switzerland.

Biercuterie partners with other businesses to offer grab and go boxes, which contain meat, cheese and veggies. The shop also occasionally has sandwich specials to showcase the cheese on display.

Sometime in the near future, customers who are not fans of traditional birthday cake will be able to buy a Biercuterie cheese cake – a bloomy rind cheese with jam and honey for icing.

Other goodies in the store include a wide array of artisan chocolates thoughtfully chosen by Sarah.

And of course, a charcuterie board isn’t complete without something to drink. Though there is a shelf for wines – including mead from the nearby Hierophant Meadery – the real star is the selection of craft beer, which Brian curates.

“Some of the beers we bring in are limited release, and so there’s a focus on things that are just new and exciting and harder to get,” he said.

His current favorite is the Mosaic Pale Ale made by Seattle-based Seapine Brewing Company. Sarah prefers sour beers from Urban Family Brewing Co., also in the Emerald City.

Biercuterie officially opened for business earlier this month and already has some dedicated customers, including members from the pottery studio next door. The hours of operation change every week and can be viewed on Biercuterie’s Instagram or the shop’s front door.

For more information, visit biercuterie.com.

From left, Jan Lipetz, Karen Abel, Bergen Rose and Jane Fung from the Whidbey Clay Center take a break to sample some cheese. (Photo by David Welton)

From left, Jan Lipetz, Karen Abel, Bergen Rose and Jane Fung from the Whidbey Clay Center take a break to sample some cheese. (Photo by David Welton)

Brian Bystrom holds out his favorite beer, Mosaic Pale Ale made by Seapine Brewing Company in Seattle. (Photo by David Welton)

Brian Bystrom holds out his favorite beer, Mosaic Pale Ale made by Seapine Brewing Company in Seattle. (Photo by David Welton)